Saddle makers and fresh figs

· We are on a hillside overlooking the vast, now irrigated and fertile plains of Mesopotamia, midway between the Euphrates and Tigris Rivers, walking through the shadowy lanes of the old bazaar. I’ll especially remember the saddle and harness makers working in the smokey stone alcoves of the 500 year old han. The saddles and harnesses are for pack donkeys used to bring goods to the bazaar, but likely for other donkeys and horses we see in the region to herd sheep and cattle and to pull carts. Leather and metal pieces hang from the alcove’s blackened ceiling. Layers of felt, colourful carpeting and heavy yarns are piled all around, Two men work methodically with long heavy needles, building the saddle layer upon layer over its wood frame, as others have likely done in these same han alcoves for centuries.
· Elsewhere, olives fresh and cured. Fresh tasty figs. Sacks of various grains, including bulgur of course. Wall of children’s school backpacks with Spiderman, racing car and blonde party girl images. Further along, round green and gold blocks (like cheddar) of scented olive oil soap.
· The beautifully detailed filigree work in the tan sandstone at each mosque along our walk up and down the cobbled lanes and steps of Mardin. Children and young women go out of their way to help us find a particular mosque or old house in this maze of lanes set deep within stone walls and buildings. Such willingness feels unusual to us. Is it a matter of habitual learned courtesy, especially towards visitors and elders? Pride of place? We don’t know. But it comes quickly and is offered unconditionally in Mardin.